On the next day, we headed back down into the valley and followed the river downstream. The locals who had pointed us toward the waterfalls before were now confused why we would be heading the other way.
The walk was stunning still. The valley’s walls steepened, birds soared high on the thermals, and we watched as sheep ran along steep ledges without a second thought.
Eventually, we came along giant boulders fallen over the river that made hidden, cool pools. And I got what I wanted for the day, which was a proper swim.